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Much has been written on the germination of seeds and further cultivation of the resulting plants; indeed, doubtless a book could be written on the specific requirements on each and every species. At the risk of being accused of over-simplification, however, we have reduced the treatment of virtually every seed, regardless of size or country of origin, to one, single, standard process, the only variant being the temperature at which the seed is germinated. Although doubtless many seeds might benefit slightly, or germinate earlier, by having their own special treatment, the process described does have the advantage of at least achieving moderate success with the vast majority of subjects. (With, of course, the exception of such things as orchid seed which, of course, requires very special treatment.) Needless to say, it is the method we use ourselves. Incidentally, don't be put off by minute seeds as, using this method, they are as easy as any other seed to grow - we get particularly good results from fibrous rooted Begonias which many people seem to find difficult.
Without hesitation, we recommend that you sow all seed in a good quality multi-purpose seed compost, such as Levington which we ourselves use.
Surprisingly completely ignored in some instructions on seed sowing, this is probably the number one enemy of seed raisers. It is a fungal disease usually attacking young seedlings at, or just below, soil level causing them to topple over and die. Although some species are more susceptible than others, we have found it advisable to protect all seeds sown indoors against it. We use a Copper Fungicide now available in sachet form, in dissolvable granules, since the more economical bottled liquid form was discontinued some time ago. However, should these granules not be readily available, traditional Cheshunt Compound in soluble powder form is one of the better alternatives. Both products should of course be made up following the instructions on the packs and a fresh solution should be made up each time.
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Provided adequate conditions of light and temperature can be maintained, almost any seed can be sown at almost any time of the year. Indeed, satisfying results can be obtained by sowing at the most unlikely times. However, as a guide, the following shows the usual sowing times:-
| HA |
February - May |
If sown direct outside, sowing should not commence until the soil has started to warm up after winter. (Some hardy annuals can be sown outdoors in late August/early September for flowering early summer the following year. Splendid and floriferous plants can be produced this way). |
| HHA |
January - April |
(With slow-growing plants such as Begonias, as early as possible; quick-growing plants such as French Marigolds, towards the end of this period.) |
| HP (incl. HBb) |
April - July |
|
| Tender Plants |
February - May |
but see first paragraph of this section. |
| HSh, HT |
February - May or August - October |
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Always use plant-pots (3½in. is a useful size
for most seeds) that are thoroughly clean, and for this reason we use
plastic ones as they are much easier to wash. For all but the largest
seeds, fill the pot with compost to within about 1 in. from the top
and lightly press down with the fingers. Then add about ½ in.
of compost that has been sieved through a ¼ in. (never finer)
mesh sieve and even off the surface using a suitable flat object.
Next, water the compost by immersing the pot in water,
being very careful not to over-water - it should be just moist and no
more - and spray the surface with the copper compound (use a fine spray).
Sow the seed thinly and evenly. A moistened match
stick is useful for small seed, and very fine seed is best mixed with
dry silver sand. Flat seed should be sown on edge. Firm the seed down
and then cover as appropriate - failing any specific information, we
use the following rule:- fine seed leave uncovered, otherwise cover
the majority of the seeds with a layer of fine compost as deep as the
seed is in size but, in case the seed in question is one of those requiring
light for germination, leaving a few seeds exposed to the light.
Then spray the surface again with the fungicide and
put the pot into a clean plastic bag and secure this with plastic coated
wire. This obviates the need of watering the seeds again until after
they germinate, and prevents the compost drying out - a common cause
of failure.
Germinate the seeds at an appropriate temperature
- as a general rule we would suggest 16/18°C (60/65°F) for hardy plants,
21°C (70°F) for tender plants (such as the majority of the Australian,
South African and Californian varieties), and slightly more for tropicals.
Although an electric propagator is useful, with a few exceptions (e.g.
palm seeds generally need about 24°C (75°F)), the temperature does not
appear too critical, and the majority seem to germinate happily on kitchen
window-sills. Most important, however, is to keep the seeds shaded and
out of direct sunlight.
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These should be soaked in water before sowing for
24 hours or so - the harder the coat, the longer it should be left to
soak. Alternatively, the coat can be scratched or chipped ("scarified"),
care being taken not to damage the embryo.
Some seeds, particularly those of alpine plants and
hardy trees and shrubs, require exposure to moisture and low temperature
for a period of 30 to 90 days. This can be achieved by leaving the seed,
sown as above, outdoors in January or February for the appropriate period
and then bringing inside (to about 18°C (65°F)). Alternatively, put the
seed in a refrigerator at a temperature of 5°C (41°F) (sown
as above or mixed with a small amount of moist peat moss in a tightly
closed plastic bag) for a similar period.
However, the fact that a seed may benefit from this treatment does not necessarily mean that, without it, it will not eventually germinate. The rule here is that any hardy or alpine seeds that have
not germinated by the autumn should be put outside and left for the winter weather to work on them, when they may well germinate the following spring. Don't throw any pot of seeds away for at least two years after
sowing - we have had many seeds coming through after this period.
Above all, don't be put off sowing a seed because you feel it may need special treatment ? one thing you can be sure of (we speak from experience!) - it won't grow if left in the packet.
Incidentally, one small point worth bearing in mind is that the vast majority of seeds in our catalogue are of naturally occurring species, in many cases collected in the wild. Unlike cultivated seeds, therefore, which have, largely unwittingly, been selected for rapid germination (a cabbage taking 12 months to germinate wouldn't stand much of a commercial chance), they still have the natural germination characteristics necessary to ensure the survival of the species, whereby each separate seed is programmed to germinate according to a particular set of circumstances. Thus don't expect every batch of seeds to germinate evenly - to do so in its natural environment is not in the plant's best interest.
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When large enough to handle, the young plants will
need pricking out and, if not destined for planting out in the garden,
eventually potting on. For this we would suggest making up your own
compost consisting of 7 parts by volume loam, 3 parts peat and 2 parts
sharp sand. To this is added John Innes Base Fertilizer at the rate
of 4 oz per bushel (4 x 2 gallon buckets) for small plants (up to 4½in.
dia. pots), 8 oz for medium size plants, and 12 oz for large ones (larger
than 8in. dia. pots). Mix the fertilizer thoroughly with the sand, and
then mix this with the other two ingredients. The result is a very economical
and effective growing medium for the majority of plants.
Incidentally, when pricking out your seedlings, when
frequently you will have far more plants than you will need, it is a
good idea to select individuals with an assortment of sizes ? paradoxically
it is often the small and weakly seedlings that eventually produce the
best flowers with the most interesting colours. This is particularly
true when dealing with (a) mixtures or (b) varieties of species (e.g.
Digitalis purpurea 'Apricot') where any reversion to the type, parent,
species is often associated with the strongest seedlings.
| When planting out seedlings
in their final position, some will need protection from slugs and
snails. However, if you (or your immediate neighbours) are a cat or
dog owner (particularly the former) do NOT use slug PELLETS as these
are an all too common cause of the deaths of these pets. Use instead
one of the other products available such as ones liquid - or bran-based. |
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One of the commonest causes of failure of plants is incorrect watering. Failing information to the contrary, the following is the rule to apply:- when first transplanted, water with extreme caution until the plant has recovered from the shock. Thereafter water thoroughly and then leave alone until the soil is again practically dry. Never leave a pot in a saucer of water. As a general rule, plants should be kept drier in winter than in summer (indeed some succulents and other plants that would otherwise be tender can survive several degrees of frost if completely dry). However, certain Australian plants, such as Eucalyptus, must never be allowed to dry out completely - they will rarely recover from wilting.
Observe, and you will learn much from your experience.
Any seed not sown immediately should be stored in a moisture-proof container in the main body of a domestic fridge. Although the majority of seeds remain viable with storage at room temperature for at least a year or two, cold storage takes care of those with relatively short life and extends considerably the life of others. Above all, NEVER store seeds in a greenhouse or potting shed - the combination of heat and moisture will literally kill off seeds in six weeks that would normally survive three years or more.
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